Slap it on! |

Rock, ice, sky, water, ridges, ancient Caledonian pine forest, lairigs, glens, plateaus, summits, bothies, tents, adventure. Man, it's good to be out there! Come with me on my journey through and into the wild. Join me as I battle through the wind and snow, sunshine and rain, on a mountain odyssey that not only keeps me sane, but makes me glad to be alive.
Saturday, 31 May 2014
Red Hot on The Fell
Friday, 30 May 2014
The Climber
The Climber awoke.
He could feel the intense heat of the sun beating down on his back like a furnace, piercing the thin fleece he was wearing and causing him to sweat profusely. His senses seemed dulled like he'd somehow been drugged without his knowledge. His eyes, head, legs and chest pulsed to the throbbing beat of his heart. He was aware of the fact that he was somewhere well outside his comfort zone, but the facts, like jigsaw pieces, had still to click into place. He didn't fully realise it yet, but he had endured an awful calamity and his sense of shock was palpable.
Contrastingly, he could feel a soothing breeze coming from somewhere beneath his feet, which seemed to be dangling over an expanse of space, his left leg displaying the traumatic evidence of a ripped gaiter, half of which had been torn asunder, the other half fluttering forlornly in the breeze. Until then he'd been in a dreamlike state, but now at this precise moment, even while semi-conscious, he suddenly became aware that something was badly wrong. He couldn't accurately comprehend his plight, only that the intense pain he felt and the precarious position he now occupied lay outwith the realm of safe and comfortable. He'd been taken from great to grief. From exhilaration nearly to extermination. His desolation was almost absolute and, worst of all, he was alone and far from help or rescue.
He was lying prostrate, on his face, like a toppled tombstone in a rocky granite cemetery, and runny wet mud oozed over his name and his face, blocking one of his nostrils and obscuring his vision. Rest in peace Mr. Climber! He had no grasp on the real world. He existed in a limbo, a fantasy land where his reality lagged far behind his consciousness and he viewed his surroundings in slow motion, like a drunk trying to make sense of his house keys.
His first attempt at movement was to wriggle the fingers on his left hand, but without much in the way of success and resulting only in a biting pain. Therefore, he gave up temporarily and then tried again a few minutes later. This time, the consequent pain persuaded him to stop. It felt like rods of white hot metal were being skewered straight down under his finger nails, through the middle of his knuckles and into the palm of his hand. Movement, it seemed, was going to be a bit of a challenge.
Then, when he felt the breeze rattling through his fingers and through the shredded rags of what had been a glove and experienced the raw, jagged pain of exposed flesh, he realised his hand was useless. He managed a sideways look from amongst the mud and what he saw terrified him - a bloody, shattered, mashed up fist, his ragged fingers splayed haphazardly like wilted daffodils and his lower arm looking like it had been pulverised in a road traffic accident. His realised, at this point, that not only were his fingers and hand broken, but his whole left arm was useless.
He then abandoned all effort at movement, preferring instead hushed, restful motionlessness to the torture of movement. The next few minutes seemed to pass like the oozing, molten hands on Salvador Dali's melting clock faces, except that The Climber's form was draped over a rocky ledge, on a lonely mountainside, far away from the safe haven of a sheltered beach. Then again, all too slowly this time, his pain-racked body fell into a mild sleep. Relief. Escape. Refuge. Oh how sweet the release of unconsciousness and the anaesthetising effects of inertia.
However, his slumber was short-lived and he woke again, abruptly this time to the full, alarming realisation of both where he was and how he had gotten there. He had been on a solo climb in the Cairngorms, venturing out alone today, with the intention of walking from Scottie's Bothy, where he'd spent the previous night in the company of a party of RAF chaps from Lossiemouth, ensconced in the raucous reverie of folk music and whisky, to climb Derry Cairngorm. Last night's banter had been superb, centring around a hilarious card game where the lowest ranked player was given a series of menial tasks and baited mercilessly, whilst the top dog was treated like a lord - pretty much a realistic reflection of life in the forces, then.
It was just what the doctor had ordered, an escape from the stresses and strains of his job in the city to the idyllic, awe inspiring wildness of the Cairngorms. The great company and raucous banter had set the seal on his first day in the wilderness and set the scene for the adventure that lay ahead, or so he thought...
Today, on a beautiful clear morning he'd shaken off the excesses of the night before, and his early start had taken him from Derry Lodge northwards up Glen Derry and then via Carn Crom, Little Cairngorm and Derry Cairngorm and eventually down to the foot of the cliffs at remote Coire Sputan Dearg. He hadn't planned a solo route on these cliffs, as his original intention was to head from Derry Cairngorm over to Coire Etchachan and spend the night in The Hutchison Memorial Hut. He'd agreed to rendezvous with a fellow climber who lived in this neck of the woods, before heading for Shelter Stone Crag in the Loch Avon basin, to climb a particularly difficult route called Run of the Arrow. What an epic three days he had in store.
However, like all plans on a day of great weather, they're open to change, and the change he had in mind today was to pick his way up these vertiginous cliffs to gain easier, less rocky slopes and from there attain the summit of Ben Macdui, the second highest mountain in the UK after Ben Nevis.
Like all solo efforts it was risky. He'd be climbing unroped and without a partner or any form of protection, where the result of a fall would be serious, or even catastrophic. But, hey - what the heck! Get while the getting's good, he who dares, carpe diem and all that nonsense. He could put in some temporary protection for security as he paused for rest on the route, he told himself.
And so the plan took shape, formed and moulded from sheer optimism, great weather and the urge for adventure that lies somewhere deep within all of us. And like everything else on a clear sunny day, life seemed easy and possibilities were apparently limitless. He could see his way forward bright and clear, the multi-faceted challenge of climbing, walking and dossing overnight in another great Cairngorms bothy was irresistible.
His impulsively chosen climb had started at the foot of a slabby route named Crystal Ridge, and in the early stages it was an absolute joy, a classic even by the elevated standards of the Cairngorms. With a south-eastern aspect, Coire Sputan Dearg caught the early morning sun, and now, at 8.00am the sun warmed his back as he climbed, lost in his thoughts whilst simultaneously focused on the rock immediately in front of him. Rock 'n' roll! "You can tell everybody - I'm the man, I'm the man, I'm the man." With his i-pod booming in his ears, he settled into an easy rhythm, the beat of each song propelling him towards his goal. He had already picked out the soundtrack of his dreams, and he visualised himself watching the video clip of this epic adventure on You Tube. Maybe ACDC's "You Shook Me All Night Long", or ZZ Top's "Tube Snake Boogie" would be the soundtrack.
Climbing was his passion, as was the pursuit of filthy lucre in the dog eat dog, cut-throat world of the London Stock Exchange. Climbing, hill walking, mountaineering, paddling, cycling and even... golf, in fact any excuse to get outside gave him a sense of freedom and exhilaration that was the equal of any buzz he gained from accumulating wealth and closing big financial deals. Money was only one of his passions, oh yes! The capacity and desire to travel and pursue his outdoor hobbies was the other. For him, the pursuit of a range of outdoor sports was easy. He was young, relatively fit, healthy, fabulously wealthy, and therefore he had the means to splash out on foreign trips and expensive gear. So why not? You're only young once, or so they say. Every opportunity outside his busy schedule in The City was seized upon as he made the most of his chances, like many rats in the big time he was cash-rich and time-poor.
However, the first inkling that things were starting to go slightly awry dawned on him when he reached the crux move of the route......
Tune in for the next instalment, coming soon on Stewart's Mountain Odyssey.
Saturday, 17 May 2014
Wet and Wild on Beinn Ghlas
Beinn Ghlas (Grey-Green Mountain) 17/5/14
DofE on the move |
Taking a well-earned break |
Ross had the GPS out |
On a positive note, however, the clear days are like a reward for all the dreich days, and they are appreciated so much more as a result. And for all you first timers - the only way is up from here!
Yes - the weather was this bad! Success! Munro bagged! Flag planted! Angela and Gav at the top |
Saturday, 3 May 2014
A Day of Firsts on Ben Narnain and The Cobbler
This was Rachel's first attempt at climbing two hills in one day, as our goal for today was to climb Ben Narnain, followed by The Cobbler. In fact today was a day of many firsts for Rach, so read on and you'll find out.
The weather forecast had seemed optimistic when I looked at the long-range prediction on Tuesday (cool and clear), but as I've found from bitter experience, long range forecasts are not to be trusted and they are prone to change on a daily basis. The actual weather today was overcast, calm and cool, with the wind a wee bit wilder nearer the summit of Narnain.
Another first: Rach spotted her first ptarmigan today (before dad could)- on Ben Narnain, not on the so called Ptarmigan Ridge of Ben Lomond last time out. This wee black and white bird blends beautifully with its surroundings and it was a while before I managed to pick it out, so effective was its summer camouflage. In winter, it becomes totally white except for its tail and eye patch, which remain black. This sighting was a good sign that we were gaining significant height, as these partridge-sized birds rarely frequent the lower slopes, often they can only be seen above 2,000 feet, so at this point we knew we were fairly close to the top.
And so, we gained the summit, after an adventurous wee section known as the Spearhead, where rock slope failure had caused a significant collapse near the summit, evidenced by some massive rocks which had obviously toppled downwards, littering the hillside with some impressive debris.
Another first today for Rach was taking a compass bearing for real on the cloud covered summit of Ben Narnain, as we aimed for the Bealach a'Mhaim before tackling the Cobbler. We'd run through the process in the comfort of our living room back home, but there's nothing quite like testing it for real, especially when the clag's doon (poor visibility/low cloud, for my American friends). But first things first and we managed to get a fellow mountaineer to take a summit pic, as opposed to the usual selfie.
After negotiating the summit plateau and the western flank of the mountain, whilst walking on a bearing, we headed for the Cobbler. As this was to be our first attempt at two mountains in one day, I decided to give Rach a get-out clause, suggesting that maybe the Cobbler could wait until a clearer day. However, the bold Rach would have none of it and was determined to bag another summit. It wasn't until we were half way up the Cobbler, I realised that she thought this hill was also a Munro. So that's why she had jet heels! Sorry to disappoint you, Rach.
The Cobbler has three tops, of which the rocky promontory in the middle is the true summit. However, an airy scramble is required to "go through the eye of the needle" before attaining the exposed plinth of the summit. Now, I've taken a fair few folk up the Cobbler in the past, including groups of young people as part of my job. And although I've personally been to the top a few times, guiding someone there safely would require the use of a rope - for my peace of mind, more than the intrepid climbers'. All the way up the back end of the hill, Rach begged me to let her go for it - until she actually saw it first hand, and beat a hasty retreat, phew!!!
Instead we decided to tackle the north top, which has a cracking overhang, barely visible through the cloud from below. So, on we bashed, to the beat of our rumbling bellies, till we hit our concluding top of the day, and it was on this airy spot we tucked into our packed lunches, thankful that the rain was staying away for a change. Once the sandwiches were scoffed, we headed back down to the bealach and made our way down the familiar track, via the Narnain Boulders, back to Succoth and the comforts of the car. Oh, and Rach managed a final first today, at the Narnain Boulders. It was a somewhat private moment, interupted briefly by two passing walkers. But I'll leave that up to her to tell you, next time you speak to her.
The weather forecast had seemed optimistic when I looked at the long-range prediction on Tuesday (cool and clear), but as I've found from bitter experience, long range forecasts are not to be trusted and they are prone to change on a daily basis. The actual weather today was overcast, calm and cool, with the wind a wee bit wilder nearer the summit of Narnain.
Rach with walking poles for the first time |
Today, Dad was road testing his new Black Diamond walking poles and Rach used poles for the first time, namely Dad's old ones. This proved to be a positive experience for both father and daughter, as Dad really appreciated having good foam grips that don't get soaked in sweat and Daughter agreed that poles really do ease the shock load on your knees, as well as providing a good upper-body workout and giving good balance on uneven terrain (my words, not hers...she'll agree in the fulness of time). The one negative is that there are steeper sections on many hills, including a couple on Ben Narnain that require a more hands-on approach, and for this, poles need to be temporarily dispensed with.
Look nae poles! |
Can't take the credit for this excellent pic. thanks google images |
Rach approaching the Spearhead |
Munro number 3, Rach. Only 279 to go! |
The Cobbler has three tops, of which the rocky promontory in the middle is the true summit. However, an airy scramble is required to "go through the eye of the needle" before attaining the exposed plinth of the summit. Now, I've taken a fair few folk up the Cobbler in the past, including groups of young people as part of my job. And although I've personally been to the top a few times, guiding someone there safely would require the use of a rope - for my peace of mind, more than the intrepid climbers'. All the way up the back end of the hill, Rach begged me to let her go for it - until she actually saw it first hand, and beat a hasty retreat, phew!!!
The summit |
Dad- looking uncharacteristically cheery |
Instead we decided to tackle the north top, which has a cracking overhang, barely visible through the cloud from below. So, on we bashed, to the beat of our rumbling bellies, till we hit our concluding top of the day, and it was on this airy spot we tucked into our packed lunches, thankful that the rain was staying away for a change. Once the sandwiches were scoffed, we headed back down to the bealach and made our way down the familiar track, via the Narnain Boulders, back to Succoth and the comforts of the car. Oh, and Rach managed a final first today, at the Narnain Boulders. It was a somewhat private moment, interupted briefly by two passing walkers. But I'll leave that up to her to tell you, next time you speak to her.
The overhang |
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